Battle of the PDOs: Graves vs Puisseguin Saint-Émilion
Bordeaux Magazine US
January 3, 2025

Battle of the PDOs: Graves vs Puisseguin Saint-Émilion

When it comes to the field of Bordeaux appellations, a new match is on the horizon! On the one side is Bérengère, winegrower at Château Lusseau, taking the helm of the Graves appellation for this contest. On the other is Jeanne, communication manager at Château Lafaurie, taking on the role of standard-bearer for the Puisseguin Saint-Émilion appellation. While this is, first and foremost, a friendly match, it is nevertheless hotly contested… So, are you ready to savor the strengths of each side? 

The whistle blows: the Bordeaux Left Bank faces the Right Bank

With no further ado, the Graves kick off this 100% Bordeaux clash. Located south of Bordeaux, on the left bank of the Garonne, the Graves vineyards stretch over 3,500 hectares. What makes them stand out is their very light and permeable soil, which ensures an optimal water supply for the vine and, in turn, ideal ripening of the grapes. In fact, the appellation derives its name from this soil composed of gravel, “graves” in French. It is a mix of sand and stone, pebbles from the Pyrenees that have been carried along by the Garonne for millennia…

At the other end of the pitch is Puisseguin Saint-Émilion, rooted in the hilly landscapes of the right bank of the Dordogne, in the Libourne region. With its 730 hectares nestled to the northeast of the village of Saint-Émilion, it is one of the latter’s 4 satellite appellations (alongside the Saint-Émilion, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru and Lussac Saint-Émilion appellations). It benefits from wonderful south/southeast exposure and a clay-limestone terroir ideal for keeping the soil cool, even in the hottest summers.

Passionate winemakers head-to-head in expertise

The Graves’ secret weapon? It is the oldest appellation of Bordeaux wines, with expertise dating back to antiquity (no less!). That’s right, the Romans chose these distinctive lands to plant the very first vines in the region. In this original birthplace of Gironde winegrowing, a true family story has been passed down from one generation to the next! 240 winegrowers are devoted to producing their wines here, with enthusiasm and exacting standards. But that’s not all. Their sense of hospitality and their cooperation with research to innovate are their hallmarks!

Meanwhile, Puisseguin Saint-Emilion stands out for its excellent craftsmanship. In a hundred or so estates on a human scale, the vineyard is tended to like a garden, with care and patience. Each vine is nurtured, with the constant aim of preserving it for future generations. This long-term vision and tradition in motion are the beating heart of the appellation. And if there’s one thing that sets the winegrowers of Puisseguin Saint-Emilion apart, it’s their pleasure for welcoming and sharing their passion with wine lovers, whenever they get the chance!

Final minutes of a tight duel: 3 styles or 1?

While the outcome of this battle is still undecided, let’s get tasting to try and decide between our two PDOs! To start, Graves has a chameleon-like appeal with its three styles, which are the appellation’s hallmarks: red wines, dry white wines and sweet white wines. The red wines are produced using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. As for the white wines, they are made from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris. These fine and elegant wines express the taste of their terroir in their own way. The result is incredible diversity in each glass and a multi-faceted vineyard to discover!

No multiple styles at Puisseguin Saint-Émilion, but a full command of red wine. And what a red! In this appellation’s valleys, the vines benefit from tailor-made conditions that allow superb red grape varieties to flourish. Merlot is king on these lands (representing 80% of the area under vine), accompanied by Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. This results in full-bodied wines with asserted but silky tannins, able to age well for many years. In short, excellent red wines that uphold Saint-Émilion’s international reputation!

Time for the verdict: who wins this battle in your opinion? For us, in any case, it’s impossible to decide… We’d rather sit on the sidelines, and offer you another exciting battle of the PDOs, this time between rosé and sparkling wines!

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